Tailleur
Tailleur
I decided that one of my outfits is really based on a suit because it is an iconic garment symbol of emancipation. In fact, as already mentioned in previous posts, I was inspired by Chanel and Schiaparelli for this project. Chanel revolutionized the dress rules of the time. Young and ambitious, Coco Chanel in 1917 completely reinvented the tailleur, favoring comfort with the prospect of a line that fits the body, without emphasizing the waist, a masculine jacket with large pockets, and a straight skirt below the knee. The basic model of the Chanel suit was based on functionality, it provided only for the combination with a strictly white shirt and was knitted, tweed, silk, or velvet. The fifties tweed suit consisted of three pieces: jacket-cardigan embellished with frills such as golden chains and buttons, knee-length skirt, and a shirt whose fabric was coordinated with the inner one of the tailleur.
In 1947 Christian Dior launched his Bar suit as part of the first collection called "Corolle". A completely innovative female figure: no square shoulders, orthopedic heels, or tight skirts used in wartime, a time when women and men resembled soldiers. It was precisely the dark years of the conflict that triggered the designer's desire for renewal, sought after among the typical elements of the past: sculpted beauty, made up of constrictions such as the guepiére, whalebones, waistband, and rigid tulle linings. organza to support the several meters of pleated skirts. Symbol of the birth of the New Look, it was what today is the iconic garment of the Maison Dior, even if at that time the revolutionary Coco Chanel returned to the limelight after the closure of her ateliers due to the Second World War.
Coco is horrified at the sight of women dressed in that narrow bodice, now considered anachronistic, she did not love Dior and did not define the New Look as an innovative stylistic movement but something that was going to retrieve iconic elements of the past. Coco also did not appreciate the consumption of fabrics since almost 4 meters of fabric were needed to make the skirt. In fact, she will begin to return that freedom to the women they were once again abandoning.
To bring the trouser tailleur on the road to success, it was Yves Saint Laurent who in 1966 launched the women's tuxedo worn by Penelope Tree and photographed by Richard Avedon, he too went to steal the tuxedo jacket from the man's wardrobe, which as he says the English word, was the smoking jacket. The funky wave of the 70s, however, makes the trouser suit less serious; prints abound and the materials used to make it are mainly velvet and patchwork. The second half of the 1970s saw a return to the past in the style of the trouser tailleur thanks to Giorgio Armani who led women to reconsider more classic men's clothing. The suit becomes the cult garment of the Armani Maison, thus outlining the intention of the couturier: to bring a woman who is sure of the role acquired with difficulty in the spotlight.
The suit is not just a simple item of clothing but represents an emblem for female emancipation. Strong and courageous women who even today, after many years, can wear it with pride and determination in the office and in positions of power, even if unfortunately the road to equal opportunities is still very long.
So as one of my garments I chose the suit and I really want to represent it in its two different forms, that is, both with the skirt and with the trousers. I decided to use it both with the skirt and with the trousers because the suit for women is as already mentioned above a symbol of emancipation but I have noticed that now the girls do not give weight to how we have managed to take our rights over time so I want to remind these girls that we women must continue to fight and fashion is also an important factor that allows us to express ourselves and also represents who we are and what we want to communicate.
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